The key points of the gemstone setting technique in gold jewelry are as follows:
Stone observation: Observe the shape and size of the gemstone, check if there are any cracks in the gemstone, and determine whether it can withstand the pressure required for setting.
Setting the gemstone: Place the gemstone on the ring setting, check if the gemstone fits the specification of the setting, and confirm whether the length of the prongs or nails and other components is sufficient to fix the gemstone.
Positioning: Determine the setting size based on the shape of the gemstone. Use a needle to grind the setting into a concave groove until the gemstone can be fixed. Then, use an umbrella needle to grind notches at the claw positions according to the height of the gemstone to facilitate the fixation of the gemstone, and ensure that the positions of each claw are ground evenly and uniformly.
Stone insertion: Place the gemstone into the pre-adjusted setting, ensuring that the gemstone and the setting are evenly distributed, with a balanced surface that does not come loose or deviate, and that they fit perfectly.
Fixing stones: Apply force to secure the gemstone based on its hardness. When using the pliers, apply force evenly. If too much force is applied, the gemstone may be damaged. If the force is not sufficient, the stone may not be firmly fixed, causing the gemstone to loosen easily.
Repair: After the above procedures, it is inevitable that there will be marks left by pliers and files, which will affect the overall beauty of the jewelry and must be repaired. Especially when the claws are long, they should be cut short. When trimming the claws, you need to protect the gemstone with your fingers, and then round and smooth the claws with a file and sandpaper.
In addition, common inlaying methods include:
Prong setting: A gemstone is securely fastened to a bracket with a metal prong. It is divided into single piece setting and group setting. Single-grain setting involves setting a larger gemstone on the bracket to set off and highlight the luster and value of the main stone. Prong setting covers the gemstone less and is suitable for faceted gemstones that need to display luster and fire. It can be used to set a main stone or a group of small secondary stones.
Setting with nails: Small nails on the edge of the gemstone are used to fix the gemstone in the diamond position. It is often used in the setting of secondary stones in group setting. Its arrangement and distribution are diverse. According to the number of nails, it can be divided into two-nail setting, three-nail setting, four-nail setting and close-nail setting.
Setting: It involves encircling the gemstone with a metal edge. It is often used for larger gemstones, especially those with arched surfaces. This is because larger arched gemstones are difficult to secure firmly with the prong setting technique, and the long prongs affect the overall appearance.
Push setting (track setting, interlocking setting or wall setting) : Cut a slot on the side of the setting opening, place the gemstone in the slot and press it firmly. This method is often used for setting secondary stones in high-end jewelry. Some square and trapezoidal diamonds have an excellent setting effect when set by the setting method.
Setting: A metal edge is squeezed out around the setting edge and pressed against the gemstone. It is mostly used for small gemstones.